Planting A Lime Tree

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Planting A Lime Tree

Mexican or true Lime trees (Citrusaurantifolia) are small, slender, often willowy,with numerous thorns, and small leaves. Asecond group serving the same purpose is theTahiti Group, which is characterized by larger,less thorny trees, and larger fruit. The `Rangpur'Lime, probably an acid Mandarin Orange,which it resembles in tree and fruit, also servesthe same purpose, and is treated here. Thesevery acid citrus are prized primarily for theunique, refreshing flavor of their fruit as used incooling drinks and cookery.

The true limes will tolerate but a degree or two of frost. Growth is therefore limited to southern Fla., the Keys, warmer areas of thesoutheast Gulf coast, and to protected sites in the most frost-free areas of southern Calif.Varieties of the Tahitian (Persian) group areonly slightly more cold-resistant and can with-stand temperatures of about 26" to 27° F.without serious injury. The 'Rangpur' Lime onthe other hand is nearly as hardy as the SweetOrange, and can withstand temperatures in thelow zo's without serious tree damage. All, how-ever, have tender fruit which can withstand but3-4 degrees below freezing, 'Rangpur' fruitbeing slightly more tender.

As true limes are propagated mostly by seed,the variety designation has less significance thanfor many other plant varieties. Accepted fruittype is small, oval to round, about an inch india. The fruit becomes lemon-yellow when fullyripe, but is usually harvested when still green,or showing but a slight yellow blush. The fleshis greenish yellow, tender, and yields abundant,very acid juice with the typical lime flavor.Mexican, West Indian, Key and thornlessvariants of the above names may be offered bynurserymen in areas where limes are grown.

`Bearss' is the best of the Tahiti or Persiangroup, and may bear the name Tahiti or Persian,but the former is a distinct variety. The fruit islarger than that of the true Lime, being fromI+ to over 2 in. in dia. The skin and flesh coloris about the same as for the Mexican group, andthe juice has the flavor of the true lime.'Bearss' is seedless.

`Rangpur' can be used to extend the range ofvery acid citrus. The fruit is a deep orangecolor, the skin loose, and the flesh orangecolored, juicy, and with only a slight suggestionof the true lime flavor. In fruit and tree itclosely resembles the mandarin oranges,especially the tangerines; the fruit is slightlyseedy. A few sweet limes, most nearly resemblingthe Tahiti Group, are known; varieties are`Palestine', 'Sweet', and `Otaheite'. The latter,propagated from cuttings, is sold in quantity as aChristmas potted ornamental plant bearingbloom and fruit. All of the sweet limes aresuspected hybrids.

Propagation

Mexican limes are readily propagated byseed, most coming true to type, as they arehighly polyembryonic. The 'Bearss' must bepropagated vegetatively, as it is seedless, and isa triploid citrus. 'Rangpur', unlike the Mexican,will not come true from seed in most cases, soto assure getting the desired type, budded treesare best used.

Lime trees may be topworked,but their use as rootstocks has not beengenerally tested, except that the 'Rangpur' isapparently a satisfactory stock for other citrus The cold-tenderness of the Mexican andTahitian groups would not suggest their use inareas where these kinds cannot be grown.

Rootstocks

Mexican limes can be grown on any of thecommon citrus rootstocks, but appear to over-grow Sour Orange rootstock badly, suggesting adegree of incompatibility. In southern Fla.,Rough Lemon has proved to be good, SweetOrange and Grapefruit rootstocks have beenused successfully. Of course most are grown ontheir own roots, as seedlings. The same root-stocks will serve for varieties of the TahitianGroup or `Rangpur'.

Planting

Mexican limes make small trees, and plantingdistance need not be in excess of 15 ft.; theTahitian Group grow considerably larger, anddistances of about 22 ft. should be allowed; thesame or slightly longer planting distances applyto 'Rangpur'. Little is known concerning thevalue of dwarfing rootstocks for the limes; the'Otaheite', as mentioned, is adapted to potculture, and all could be kept small by growingin small tubs if given good attention.

The Mexican and Tahitian group of limes tendto bloom and mature fruit throughout the year,although there is a normal peak season ofmaturation. In Calif., Mexican limes ripen mostof their crop in the late fall or winter; the'Bearss' somewhat later. In Fla., the main cropripens from June to Aug. `Rangpur' has but asingle bloom and ripening period in the South-west and Pacific regions, but may bear a smallnumber of fruit throughout the year in theSoutheast; its normal peak production is inwinter and early spring.

Limes may be kept for some time in cool,dry storage if properly cured when harvested.See LEMON. 'Rangpur' is not so well adapted toprolonged storage.

Besides the normal diseases of citrus , the Mexican lime is particularlysubject to anthracnose fungus, particularly inthe humid Southeast—a disease which attacksboth fruit and foliage. On the other hand, theTahitian Group are susceptible to citrus scab,to which the Mexican group is highly resistant,if not immune.

Lime is not necessary for all plants on all soils. In fact, lime is not even necessary as anadditive on all soils. Contrary to popular beliefit is not a fertilizer but does have an activepart to play in garden soils. Lime is calciumcarbonate, and of course all plants need calcium in order to grow properly. In soils made fromlimestone rocks there is usually sufficientpresent in the soil, or if lime is being leachedout by heavy rains, more calcium carbonatebecomes available. In acid soils, lime is some-times needed for certain plants, especiallyvegetables and farm crops, although most treesand shrubs seem to be unaffected with or with-out it.

A "sour" soil is one with most of the limeleached out. In areas where soils have been madefrom acid-bearing rocks what little calciumcarbonate there is present in the soil is beingcontinually leached out by rainfall. Farmersknow that such a soil is unfit for growing cloveror would not produce a good crop of vegetables.The gardener should understand the uses oflime in order to use it intelligently and also savehimself time and money in applying it un-necessarily.

Soil that has a green scum or small amountsof moss in it, is in poor condition, certainly inneed of fertilizer and possibly is in need of limealso.

Lime, added to a heavy clay soil, makes itmore workable by improving the physical con-dition. It causes the finer particles of clay andsilt to combine (in a heavy clay soil), forminglarger particles and thus allowing space for airand water drainage. On the other hand, appliedto sandy soils it can prove harmful. It alsoreduces the amount of acidity in a soil (seesons) and soils usually need it if the acidity isbelow 5.5 pH.

There are several types of lime on the marketbut by far the best for gardeners is ground lime-stone, or better still ground dolomitic limestonebecause this has, in addition, a small amount ofmagnesium, an essential element for plantgrowth and often deficient in many soils.

This material, as well as ground limestone,has the added advantage that it can not be tooheavily applied, within reason. When the pH ofthe soil rises to neutral or slightly alkaline theremaining lime becomes less and less soluble,hence there is not the danger from burningfoliage with too heavy an application. Someother forms of lime do not act this way butremain soluble even though the soil alkalinity isbeing raised, hence if too heavily applied, thealkalinity of the soil continues to rise andshortly phosphorous, magnesium and some ofthe other minor elements are made unavailable.This of course causes injury to the plants. Also,lime does aid in releasing certain chemicals inthe soil.

Limestone. This is simply the ground lime-stone rock and it should be finely ground. Itshould pass a to-mesh (to the inch) screen andhalf of it should pass a too-mesh screen.

Oyster shells. These are available only nearthe seacoast where oyster fisheries are located.They have little value unless finely ground.

Marl. This is sometimes available locally andis a mixture of limestone and silt or clays, butthey vary considerably in proportion and ifprice is not a factor these local marls might beoverlooked as suppliers of limestone.

Chalk. A poor form of lime, not so commonlyused in this country as in England. It has twicethe bulk but only one half the value of lime-stone.

Hydrated lime or slaked lime is the hydroxideof time or burned lime to which water has beenadded. It is a white powder and is highly causticand difficult to handle.

Burned lime or quicklime comes in largelumps unfit for the gardener's purpose, and is thecommercial oxide of lime. It is a white powder,caustic and difficult to handle.

Of these, the best for the gardener's purpose isground dolomitic limestone, ground limestoneor hydrated lime, in that order.

How much to apply—the soil test (see sons)will show this but usually the old saying is a"a ton of lime per acre," which broken downfor small garden plots is a lb. per sq. yard ofsoil. One satisfactory application need not berepeated for 4-5 years. It should be spreadevenly on the surface of prepared garden soiland either watered in or allowed to stand untilrain washes it down into the soil. Lime does notmove up or laterally very well in the soil, thereason why it should not be plowed in. Norshould it be applied to or with manure for thisway it does more harm than good. It should notbe mixed with commercial fertilizers.

It is best not to use burned or slaked lime inthe garden. Certain woody plants, like lilacs andjunipers, apparently grow better in acid soils iflime is added. Many plants are indifferent to itand certainly ericaceous plants need very littleif any lime added to a good acid soil in whichthere is plenty of humus.

Applying lime to lawns has been much over-done. Lime corrects strongly acid soils, addscalcium as a nutrient, increases the availabilityof other plant nutrients and encourages bio-logical activity. Most grasses grow well onmoderately acid soils. Lime encourages weedsand clover, hence if a pure grass lawn is desiredlime should only be applied on extremely acidsoils at least below a pH 5.5. If lime is to beapplied to correct acidity, hydrated lime can beapplied at a rate of 35 lbs. per moo sq. ft. orpowdered limestone at a rate of 5o lbs. per woosq. ft.

Kentucky Bluegrass does not always need lime. It needs a fertile soil and if the soil isfertile it can grow well on limestone soils. The chances are that a complete fertilizer added tothe lawn will do more good than an applicationof lime.

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