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Hand Sewing

In the days before sewing machines,every garment, curtain or soft furnishing item was sewn by hand. Itseems miraculous now that so muchwas achieved, often in poor light.Sewing machines have, without doubt,taken the drudgery out of sewing, butthey cannot entirely replace handsewing. This process should not behurried as the quality of your stitcheswill affect the finished appearance.

TYPES OF STITCHES

1. Running stitch: This basic stitch isused for gathering, smocking and quilting.Make several small even stitches at atime, weaving the needle in and out ofthe fabric at regular intervals. The spacesshould he the same size as the stitches. Use longer stitches for gathering and leavethe thread end loose for pulling up.

2. Backstitch: Use this strong stitch forrepairing or sewing lengths of seam thatare difficult to reach by machine. Bringthe needle up through the fabric on theseam line. Take a small stitch back alongthe seam line and bring the needle out anequal distance in front of where thethread last emerged. Continue along theseam line, inserting the needle in front ofthe last stitch and bringing it out onestitch length ahead.

3. Half backstitch: Suitable for stitchingseams or inserting sleeves by hand. Thesmall stitches are more attractive andstronger than ordinary backstitch. Thestitch is also used on facings to preventthe edge from showing on the right side ofthe garment. Work this stitch in the sameway as backstitch but take only a halfstitch back and a whole stitch forward.This forms small even stitches on the topside and long overlapping stitches on theunder side.111bNam&

4. Hem stitch: This is a diagonal stitchworked to hold down a fold of fabric suchas a binding. Despite its name, it is notsuitable for hemming a garment or curtainsbecause it shows on the right side. Heinstitch can he worked into a row of machinestitching to finish cuffs or waistbands onthe inside. Take a tiny stitch through thefabric and diagonally up through the edgeof the fOld at the same time. Continue inthis way, keeping the stitches 3-6 mum/1/s - Vi in apart depending on the thicknessof

5. Blanket stitch: Traditionally used toneaten the raw edges of wool blankets, thisstitch is quick to work and ideal forpreventing fabric from fraying while working embroidery. It can be used as adecorative stitch and also for applique.Secure your first stitch at the edge of thefabric and then work from left to right withthe edge towards you. Insert the needlethrough the right side about 6 mm/V4 infrom the edge. Bring the needle back ourover the thread loop and pull taut.Continue working evenly-spaced stitchesin this way, adding a neat finishing edge to the fabric.

6. Prick stitch: This is an almost invisiblestitch. It is used to insert zips in fine orsheer fabrics and to sew layers of fabricstogether from the right side where a rowof machine stitching would he too stiff orunsightly. Work in the same way as for halfbackstitch but take the needle hack overonly one or two threads each time to forma row of tiny surface stitches with longerreinforcing stitches on the wrong side.

7. Slip stitch: This is used to close gaps,attach pockets and insert linings. Avariation of it, known as slip hemming, isused to sew hems. When worked neatly, itis an almost invisible stitch.

8. Closed blanket stitch: This is workedin the same way as blanket stitch but withthe stitches close together. It is oftenconfused with buttonhole stitch whichhas a knot at the top of each stitch.Closed blanker stitch is used ro neatenraw edges in drawn thread, cut work andfor hand-embroidered scallop edges. It isalso worked over a group of threads tomake thread bars for belt carriers (loops),hooks or buttons. Work this stitch in thesame way as blanket stitch but sew thestitches side-by-side.

9. Oversewing: This is used to hold twofolded edges together. It. is more visible,but also much stronger, than slip stitching.Work with the two folds held together inyour hand. Take a tiny stitch straightthrough both folds, if possible catchingonly one thread. Continue along thefolds, making a row of very small slantingstitches on the right side. In traditionalpatchwork the oversewing which holdspatches together is worked from thewrong side.

Take a small stitch through the fold andthen another through the fabricunderneath. Make the stitches the samelength and keep the threads straight. Pullthe thread taut without causing the fabricto pucker. Slip hemming is worked in thesame way but only a tiny stitch is takenthrough the fabric underneath

GETTING STARTED

Hand-sewing stitches are normallyworked using thread that closelymatches the fabric. Work in goodlight either close to a window or withan angled lamp. Use a short length ofthread, and a short, fine needle to suitthe fabric you are using. Use a lengthof thread no longer than the distancebetween your elbow and wrist. Cutthe thread at an angle to make iteasier to feed through the eye of theneedle. Pull the cur end through toabout three-quarters of its length.

Wind the end of the thread aroundyour forefinger about: 13 mm/1/2 infrom the tip and hold it in place withyour thumb. Rub your finger downyour thumb until the threads form atwisted loop. Slide your finger andthumb down the thread to tighten theloop and form a small knot. Take thefirst stitch on the wrong side of thefabric. Use a small double backstitchon fine or see-through fabric wherea knot would show

FINISHING OFF

Finish hand sewing with a knot orseveral backstitches, one on top ofthe other, on the wrong side, ideallyhidden in a seam or fold. Thefinishing knot is flatter than abeginning knot.

Make a loop by taking a tinybackstitch on the wrong side of thefabric. Take the needle through theloop and pull through until a secondloop forms. Finally take the needleback through the second loop andpull the thread tight.

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